32 hours in Devizes
Chris has managed to ‘sort’ the internet on the boat by committing some wizardry so our router runs off 12v. It’s all very impressive and practical and means I can totally smash this blogging thing…I hope.
There are 12 miles and 37 locks between Bradford on Avon and Devizes and we pretty much did them all in one exhausting day. I, for some reason, (partially driven by fear of smashing our home into a brick wall) volunteered to crew those locks and I write this now moored up in Devizes feeling like I’ve run a marathon (whatever that feels like).
We were fortunate to share our journey (and work load) with an awesome couple and their puppy Alfie who was full of beans and spent most of the day desperately trying to gnaw through his lead to come and play on the locks. The guys sat on the boats and talked about heating systems and the women hauled open the lock gates like oxen - one after another THIRTY SEVEN.
By 3pm we had completed the flight and the cruel handful of locks that follow it - the whole thing took us about 2.5 hours. We moored up just before bridge 141, away from the road, and went into town to celebrate with a beer.
DEVIZES
Devizes has always been a market town and it's large marqet square makes this clearly evident. All of the handsome buildings face in towards it and vary from Tudor to Georgian and house an assorted selection of shops and restaurants. Some of the less imaginative (Greggs & Pizza Express) and a weirdly large number of banks. No shortage of cash machines. On the outskirts of town and the first major building to greet you if your coming from the canal is the impressive red brick Wadworth Brewery. They still make horse and cart deliveries and apparently the smell of brewing hops fills the air. It's pretty cool thing to have in a town - here are a few other things we discovered and liked in our 2 days in Devizes...
The Best Beer
The Black Swan Inn
Our first stop for a local Wadworth and it’s highly recommended for it’s ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe’ feeling. The dark paint work and collection of bizarre antiques adorning every single wall and drippy candles stuffed in wine bottles - also features a great big sun trap garden at the back of the pub, with loads of seats and a outdoor bar (which was closed but I guess the open it during peak times. We thought the place was pretty cool.
Joint place:
The Vaults for craft beer (when you’re sick of Wadworth come here). A huge selection of interesting beers, draft and bottled from all around the world, served by a competent bar tender who answered our questions with the air of someone who actually gives a fuck and likes their job (refreshing).
They sell Pies that look epic, and the decor of the place is cool - I loved the huge arched window at the entrance and the extraordinary hooked chandelier that welcomes you as you enter. Despite all that finery this is a nice and down to earth local
The Best Food
Franco's Italian Restaurant
01380 714270
With a slightly fuzzy IPA head, we weaved our way to a local recommendation "Franco’s" (hidden away in an alleyway - follow signs to the Old Swan Yard ). An unassuming door leads to a set of dark and damp smelling steps from which piped Italian music floats up. We went down to the basement and where seated by what must be the owner - a charming Italian lady - who looked after us with effortless Motherlike grace. The whole evening was very surreal. Sitting in this basement restaurant with the eccentric Italian owner and the old fashioned decor helped to testify the surrealness of our new lives. We sat next to a man with a hook for a hand and drank Fernet & Coke and had the most fantastically tasty pizza. If you come to Devizes - shun Pizza Express and head to Franco’s. We were there on a Wednesday night and it was packed so you may need to call ahead and book for a weekend.
There are a lot of Chinese takeaways in town, a fish and chip shop, a kebab shop, an indian restaurant so no shortage of places to eat
Shopping
There are loads of very nice homeware shops in this town - which is dangerous for me because ALL I want in life is new candles, and mohair throws :/ The star of the show is the market - or it should be. Occuring every Thursday in the central square but also spreads into a covered market hall and features a flea market in the town hall. Buy groceries, breads, meats, cut flowers, cheeses, garden stuff, picture frames, watch straps, pet treats, clothes, tools and hardware and other miscellany.
We were unimpressed by the market - there was very little in the way of local produce - carrots from Spain, Asparagus from Italy (ridiculous). Actually ended up buying the veg in M&S who were selling more locally sourced groceries. We were dissapointed but it's still the main 'fing to do' so do it if you're in town on a Thursday.
After a day of dragging Chris around various market stalls, we came back to find our boat seriously listing and the pound we had moored in partially drained. Standing on the Gunwhales trying to wiggle the boat free from the bank and who goes past but a boatload of Chris's friends from London...small small world. (Moral of the story is- don't moor before 141!)
There are 12 miles and 37 locks between Bradford on Avon and Devizes and we pretty much did them all in one exhausting day. I, for some reason, (partially driven by fear of smashing our home into a brick wall) volunteered to crew those locks and I write this now moored up in Devizes feeling like I’ve run a marathon (whatever that feels like).
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| THE TOP! |
We were fortunate to share our journey (and work load) with an awesome couple and their puppy Alfie who was full of beans and spent most of the day desperately trying to gnaw through his lead to come and play on the locks. The guys sat on the boats and talked about heating systems and the women hauled open the lock gates like oxen - one after another THIRTY SEVEN.
By 3pm we had completed the flight and the cruel handful of locks that follow it - the whole thing took us about 2.5 hours. We moored up just before bridge 141, away from the road, and went into town to celebrate with a beer.
DEVIZES
Devizes has always been a market town and it's large marqet square makes this clearly evident. All of the handsome buildings face in towards it and vary from Tudor to Georgian and house an assorted selection of shops and restaurants. Some of the less imaginative (Greggs & Pizza Express) and a weirdly large number of banks. No shortage of cash machines. On the outskirts of town and the first major building to greet you if your coming from the canal is the impressive red brick Wadworth Brewery. They still make horse and cart deliveries and apparently the smell of brewing hops fills the air. It's pretty cool thing to have in a town - here are a few other things we discovered and liked in our 2 days in Devizes...
The Best Beer
The Black Swan Inn
Our first stop for a local Wadworth and it’s highly recommended for it’s ‘ye olde curiosity shoppe’ feeling. The dark paint work and collection of bizarre antiques adorning every single wall and drippy candles stuffed in wine bottles - also features a great big sun trap garden at the back of the pub, with loads of seats and a outdoor bar (which was closed but I guess the open it during peak times. We thought the place was pretty cool.
 |
| The Black Swan Inn |
Joint place:
The Vaults for craft beer (when you’re sick of Wadworth come here). A huge selection of interesting beers, draft and bottled from all around the world, served by a competent bar tender who answered our questions with the air of someone who actually gives a fuck and likes their job (refreshing).
They sell Pies that look epic, and the decor of the place is cool - I loved the huge arched window at the entrance and the extraordinary hooked chandelier that welcomes you as you enter. Despite all that finery this is a nice and down to earth local
The Best Food
Franco's Italian Restaurant
01380 714270
There are a lot of Chinese takeaways in town, a fish and chip shop, a kebab shop, an indian restaurant so no shortage of places to eat
Shopping
There are loads of very nice homeware shops in this town - which is dangerous for me because ALL I want in life is new candles, and mohair throws :/ The star of the show is the market - or it should be. Occuring every Thursday in the central square but also spreads into a covered market hall and features a flea market in the town hall. Buy groceries, breads, meats, cut flowers, cheeses, garden stuff, picture frames, watch straps, pet treats, clothes, tools and hardware and other miscellany.
We were unimpressed by the market - there was very little in the way of local produce - carrots from Spain, Asparagus from Italy (ridiculous). Actually ended up buying the veg in M&S who were selling more locally sourced groceries. We were dissapointed but it's still the main 'fing to do' so do it if you're in town on a Thursday.
After a day of dragging Chris around various market stalls, we came back to find our boat seriously listing and the pound we had moored in partially drained. Standing on the Gunwhales trying to wiggle the boat free from the bank and who goes past but a boatload of Chris's friends from London...small small world. (Moral of the story is- don't moor before 141!)
 |
| Wadworth Brewery |
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